Cat Care Guide
Introducing Kitty to Your Home
There are many factors that go into introducing your cat to their new household. Some might need longer adjustment periods than others, and you should always remember that each one is unique. It’s generally true that cats under 6 months old adjust easier than older cats, but this varies for everyone. Here are a few factors to consider:
Dogs: All cats, no matter if they are known to be dog friendly, should be slowly introduced to their canine sibling. A great way to achieve a safe meeting is through the bars of a carrier, with your pup either on a leash or in a crate. This will tell you how each animal reacts in a controlled environment. If there are not strong reactions from either side (e.g., hissing and swatting from your new kitty, or growling and aggressive behavior from the dog), you can then let them meet though a dog gate or a screen. This allows the kitty to feel safe and see that the dog will not hurt them. It is also helpful to feed treats or yummy food to each animal on either side of the barrier, which allows them to associate each other with good things. You can eventually allow the cat free roam of a room while the dog is brought in on a leash. The behavior of each animal should be monitored closely so that neither animal feels too far out of their comfort zone. Even if everyone seems to be getting along, it can be a good idea to allow them to stay separate when everyone is out of the house for long periods of time to ensure their safety.
Shy cats: If your kitty is a shy cat it is best to keep them in a smaller space at first. Too much room can overwhelm them, which can lead to litter box issues, high levels of stress, and difficulty finding your feline friend with so many hiding options! It’s best to have them in a room with limited places where they can hide, so that they’re never out of reach. A bag of treats on hand helps to reward them if they approach you and reinforces that you are safe. Once they approach you on a consistent basis, you can gradually introduce them to more of the house.
Enrichment: Young cats—especially kittens—are notorious for their high levels of energy. It is important that you have plenty of enriching toys and scratchers waiting for them in their new space. This will prevent the kitties from getting into bad habits and destroying household items. There are A LOT of materials that are used for scratchers, so if one doesn’t appeal to them, it might help to do some research and try another. There are also so many options of automated toys that now exist. This not only helps to keep them entertained, but also to achieve a healthy weight. And if you happen to have an extra tablet or iPad lying around—you can even search up some fun apps for kitties so that they can catch digital fish and mice. You might also want to consider leash training your kitty if they’re especially perky, if you have the time and ability to do so. Kittens respond to this better than adults, but it's never too late to try! This can provide so much enrichment and release a lot of energy for those rambunctious cats, especially if you live in a smaller space with less room for them to run around indoors.
Registering Your Microchip
It is very important for you to register your cat’s microchip. If this is not done and your pet goes missing, the information will only link back to the rescue and not you. Your cat’s microchip number can be found on their medical health certificate on the top portion. If you are unable to find it for any reason, or you lose it, feel free to contact us or have your vet scan the kitty. There is a brochure in your adoption folder with registration info. It is free and easy to do but you will need the number. The majority of our cats are microchipped through Petlink and you can register them by visiting https://www.petlink.net/.
Feeding
Hands down the most asked question is what should you feed your new member of the family and how much. The answers to these questions depend completely on your unique kitty. There is a stigma around wet food, but we cannot recommend it enough. Even the cheapest wet food is healthier than most dry kinds. It has a higher protein content and adds moisture into their diet, which is important for healthy urinary habits. That being said, some cats are super picky and do not prefer wet.
For kittens: It’s essential to be on kitten wet and dry food for the first 6-12 months of their life. You do not need to worry about restricting food for the first 6 months of their life—after that, you can evaluate if they need portion control.
For adult cats: A safe amount of food is one 3 ounce can of wet per day and ¼ cup of dry. This can be increased or decreased according to the kitty’s size. Pet obesity is on the rise and it's good to be aware of what their “healthy” weight is. We recommend that any food you choose should meet the standards of The Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). Their approval should be listed on the back of bag or box, next to the ingredients list. As of this writing, Blue Buffalo does not submit to AAFCO so we do not recommend this brand of food for your kitties. Food allergies are not uncommon in cats and if you notice extremely loose stools or skin issues that do not resolve with medications you may want to consider switching to a Limited Ingredient Diet (LID) and consulting with your veterinarian.
Bathroom Habits
As we previously mentioned, every cat is a unique snowflake, and so are their bathroom preferences. It is often thought that one cat needs one litter box. This is NOT always the case.
Sometimes, one cat needs multiple litter boxes, while other times multiple cats will need only one. If a cat is going outside their box, there are many pieces of the puzzle you can change:
Most importantly, rule out the possibility of a urinary tract infection: Some symptoms include urinating frequently during the day in small amounts, straining to urinate, or spending a lot of time trying to urinate. If you observe any of these symptoms, it’s necessary to take your cat to the vet for a check up. These are most common in neutered males, but female cats can get them too.
If your kitty is healthy the next step is to make sure there are enough litter boxes: Some kitties don’t like sharing, or want to use a pristine litter box each time. We’ve seen some interesting behaviors result from this (pooping in bath tubs, beds, and outside of the litter box, to name a few). Cats seem to often dislike litter box liners, so that is the first thing to avoid if there are any accidents.
Try a new litter: There is clumping, non-clumping, clay, pine, scented, unscented, corn-based, lightweight—essentially, an infinite number of litters. For kittens under 3 months it is recommended that you use a non-clay option in case they ingest the litter.
Try a new box: There are also a host of litter boxes, from covered, high sides, top entry, plastic, metal, paper, self cleaning, etc. Some cats literally have a party with the litter, so the top entry option is best for those kitty ravers.
Try a new box placement: If bad bathroom habits continue, try putting the box where the accidents occur—it may sound simple, but it can be effective.
Remove the smell: Removing the smell of where the accidents occur can really help prevent peeing outside of the litter box. There are a whole host of options out there now for smell prevention, from Natures Miracle, Nok-Out, Angry Orange, and more.
External factors: A recent change in their environment, kids in the home, or other pets could lead to stress and accidents outside of the litter box. It might help to have a room dedicated to them so they can have their own “safe” space. You can also try a calming collar, or diffusers with calming oils. The very last option should be medications to relax them, which should be given at the direction of a vet. Our preferred medication is gabapentin for stress reduction.
Discipline
While it can seem next to impossible trying to control or affect your cat’s behavior in any way there are a few tools you can use. Here’s what we recommend. Usually you will only need to do this a few times before they get the message and give up their bad habit.
For the door dasher and/or counter-climber: use the spray bottle technique. A few quick squirts of water in their direction will be all the reason they need to give up their bad idea. Usually you will only need to do this a few times before they get the message and give up their bad habit. Once they recognize that counter climbing or trying to run out the front door = spray bottle, they’ll generally leave the area as soon as you lift the bottle.
For the yowler, singer, yodeler, opera singer cat: Don’t get us wrong, we love vocal cats. But sometimes it can be a little too much when they’re quite literally screaming by the door because they think they’re allowed outside, or yelling for attention. The best technique is to not reward this behavior, meaning ignore your kitty. If they realize their cries to climb trees as an indoor cat are fruitless, they’ll stop thinking that their meows of desperation for the outside will help their case. (Quick tip: if your indoor kitty is that desperate to go outside, try a leash! It results in a fun photo op and lots of good ways to get out their energy).
Future Vet Care
It is important to find a vet you trust and feel comfortable using. If you go to one and are not completely satisfied with your experience, don’t feel like you need to keep returning. Just like the doctors you use for yourself and your loved ones, there are a wide range of options out there so you can find the best fit for you and your kitty. If you are located in the D.C. metro area, we would be happy to recommend some of our favorites!
A yearly check-up is always recommended, but it is now no longer necessary to have them revaccinated each year. When they go in for their next round of vaccines, ask your vet for the 3-year option for rabies and distemper vaccines. If your vet tells you they do not provide these, go find another vet. We are learning that we have been far over-vaccinating cats, and this has come with a host of issues. A 3-year vaccine will keep them safe and healthy.
In the worst case scenario, if something catastrophic occurs with your kitty, please reach out to us. We would be happy to help with recommendations. Most vets will also allow you to pay with a Care Credit card, which is specifically for vet care.
Declawing
A Cat’s Life Rescue does not support the practice of declawing your cat. In fact, we condemn it. While this was once believed the miracle solution to save furniture and carpets from your kitty’s paws, we now know this is really harmful to cats.
To “declaw” a cat, veterinarians actually remove the last knuckle on your cat’s foot. Imagine what it would feel like to walk around on a foot that was missing all the ends of its toes, or having to use your hands without any of your top knuckles. This process causes extreme pain for the cat for the rest of its life. They can have swelling and arthritis in their feet. They can also develop bad bathroom habits because standing on the litter becomes excruciating. The chronic pain can cause their behavior to change, including biting and swatting out of frustration. For the sake of you and your kitty please do not engage in this barbaric practice.